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Archive for the ‘Travel in the US’ Category

 

Here’s a great little trip you can take, especially to see the fall foliage in the Ozark Mountains, but also good in late spring or during the summer.  The Ozark Mountains in Arkansas beckon you.  I wrote once about Mountain View, a mountain music and crafts center mecca but this area is also great to visit.

Let me tell you a little about the Hot Springs area.  Everyone knows Bill Clinton was born in Hope but about 70 miles north nestled in the mountains is Hot Springs.  He moved there as a young man and I remember hearing stories of how his mother loved playing the ponies at the Hot Springs horse track.

But there are a lot of other things to do in this area known for its thermal springs and bath houses. The water that flows from the underground springs are believed to have healing abilities and were first discovered hundreds of years ago by Native Americans.

While here you may want to consider a sunset dinner cruise aboard the Belle of Hot Springs riverboat.   A visit through Hot Springs National Park is also a must. Then onto the opulently restored Fordyce Bathhouse on Bathhouse Row is a site to behold.  (this is also where the National Park has their Visitor Center).  Finally check out the Gangster Museum where you are transported back to the 20s, 30s and 40s when gambling and bootlegging coexisted with the warm mineral waters of this awesome little valley town.

Nestled in the foothills of the Ozarks, the quaint town of Van Buren offers a chance to step back in time by strolling through the beautifully restored Victorian Main Street.  Then you can climb aboard the Arkansas-Missouri Scenic Railroad. The turn of the century passenger cars with their elegant mahogany interior which was the norm in the golden age of rail travel, is fun to ride.

Since you are a hop skip and a jump away from Branson why not continue on to this music mecca.

An evening aboard the showboat Branson Belle with dinner and entertainment is a great end to a wonderful day.  This was the best tasting food I have ever had on a riverboat and the entertainment was good, too. Since you are in Branson, what else can you do?  Take in a show, of course.  There are morning shows, afternoon shows and evening shows.  Some of the shows you can take in are The Osmonds, The Million Dollar Quartet, Down Home Country, The Brett Family Show, the Clay Cooper Country Music Express, The Haygoods Show, and #1 Hits of the 60s and the 50s.

And if you enjoy these shows come back anytime in November and December to see their special Christmas shows.

So much to see and do in magical Arkansas.

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I have been doing tours in Colorado for years but for some reason have never been to Rocky Mountain National Park.  The park is only a 2 hour drive from Denver but it is to the north and we don’t usually go that direction.   However we have recently changed one of our tours to include this park and I was really excited to get a chance to visit.
A popular summer resort and the headquarters for Rocky Mountain National Park, Estes Park lies along the Big Thompson River. The town has a population of just over 6,000 and it’s elevation is 7,522 feet.
There is early evidence of Native Americans living in the area for hundreds of years. In the 1850s, the Arapaho spent summers camped around Mary’s Lake, where their rock fireplaces, tipi sites, and dance rings are still visible. They also built eagle traps atop Long’s Peak to get the war feathers coveted by all tribes.  They battled with the Apaches in the 1850s, and also fought with the Utes who came to the area to hunt bighorn sheep.
Whites probably came into the Estes Park valley before the 1850s as trappers, but did not stay long. The town is named after Missouri native Joel Estes, who founded the community in 1859. Estes moved his family there in 1863.
Griff Evans and his family came to Estes Park in 1867 to act as caretakers for the former Estes ranch. Recognizing the potential for tourism, he began building cabins to accommodate travelers. Soon it was known as the first dude ranch, with guides for hunting, fishing, and mountaineering.
In 1884, Enos Mills (1870-1922) left Kansas with his family and came to Estes Park, where his relative Rev. Elkanah Lamb lived. That move proved significant for the area because Mills became a naturalist and conservationist who devoted his life after 1909 to preserving nearly a thousand square miles of Colorado as Rocky Mountain National Park.
Mills was a sickly boy and he believed he gained strength form the pure mountain air.  He opened an inn and led many hikers through his beloved mountain range.  Between logging and a chance encounter with John Muir (the “Father of the National Parks”) after Muir died in 1914, Mills began lobbying Congress to save the land as a National Park. He succeeded and the park was dedicated in 1915.
Today, Estes Park’s outskirts include The Stanley Hotel, built in 1909. An example of Edwardian opulence, the building had Stephen King as a guest, inspiring him to change the locale for his novel The Shining from an amusement park to the Stanley’s fictional stand-in, the Overlook Hotel.
The town was also the site of the organization of the Credit Union National Association, an important milestone in the history of American credit unions.
Trail Ridge Road, the highest paved highway in the United States, runs from Estes Park westward through Rocky Mountain National Park, reaching Grand Lake over the continental divide.  It is a forty-eight mile road and you reach the summit where the Alpine Visitor Center is located at 12,183 feet.  Wow…talk about cold and windy but breathtaking.
The park is one of the most visited and with it’s location so close to Denver one can understand why.  There are 56 mountains over 14,000 feet in Colorado and as you travel through the park you can see Long’s Peak to the south; the northernmost “fourteener” as those mountains are called, at 14,259 feet.
One third of the park is above timberline and that makes sense with over seventy 12,000+ foot high peaks in the area.  As you drive the Trail Ridge Road the first stop is Horseshoe Park, full of wildlife, especially elk.  And the Bighorn Sheep feed regularly at Sheep Lake.
There are many places you can stop to hike or camp but just driving the road can also be exciting.  Once you get past timberline you can see the importance of this park in protecting the fragile alpine tundra, where trees can not grow due to such very harsh conditions.  Over three hundred very hardy alpine plants make up this area.  Twenty fiver percent of these plants can also be found in the arctic.  This is also a wildlife sanctuary for the many Bighorn sheep who are a symbol of the park.
After you reach the summit, the road descends to Grand Lake and the Colorado River.  The river starts in the park and if you travel on I-70 you can follow it to Grand Junction where it turns south to the Grand Canyon and beyond.
If you are interested in reading more about Colorado be sure and check my two part articles called “Colorado by Trains.”  Colorado is truly an exciting state to visit.  Although it is not known as “The Mountain State”–that title belongs to West Virginia–it is truly a wondrous mountain state.

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        I recently wrote an article on the Oregon Lighthouses so I thought I would do something on the Atlantic Ocean.  The problem is you could write a book if you started talking about the East Coast lighthouses so I decided to concentrate on one important area in North Carolina.
Cape Hatteras National Seashore has a lot to offer.  It extends more than seventy miles on the northeast part of the state.  It includes three islands: Ocracoke, Hatteras and Bodie Island. These islands are connected by a free bridge and free ferry service.
Actually the first two Bodie Island Lighthouses were on Pea Island, an area now underwater.  The first one, built in 1847 was abandoned due to a poor foundation.  The second, built in 1859 was destroyed during the Civil War.  The current lighthouse was built in 1872 and is 156 feet tall.  Currently the public is not allowed to climb it.
After your visit, it’s time to move on to the Cape Hatteras Lighthouse with a climb up the 257 steps to the top if you are adventurous.  This area has always needed a lighthouse because of the shoals in the area.  There are two ocean currents in this area, the cold Labrador and the warm Gulf Stream.  And when these waters collide, they cause ever changing sandbars which means lots of shipwrecks.
The funds were given in 1793 but the structure at Hatteras wasn’t finished until 1802.  Over the years they kept making modifications, especially when they realized the light wasn’t strong enough to warn ships of the dangers of “the Graveyard of the Atlantic.”  The 208 foot brick lighthouse was finally moved to its present location in 1999.
Next we take a ferry to Ocracoke Island.  Native Americans have lived on this island for a long time and European presence started in 1719.  This island has a lot of history, including pirates, and recently many artifacts have been found from its past. The original lighthouse was built in 1794 adjacent to the island but was obsolete in thirty years since the main channel changed and then lightening destroyed the structure.
In 1823 a new lighthouse was built on the island and is 75 feet tall.  The walls are solid brick 12 feet thick.  There is an octagonal lantern at the top which houses the light beacon.  This is the second oldest operating lighthouse in the nation.
If you have time you could also journey to Kill Devil Hills to the Wright Brothers National Memorial.  There is a Park Ranger program and Visitor Center that exhibits information on the brothers background and the development of the gliders as well as the 1903 Flyer.
Just west of the camp buildings is a large granite boulder commemorating the take-off point.  And you can climb Big Kill Devil Hill for a breathtaking view of the area from the sound to the sea.  On top of the hill stands a 60 foot Pylon, the site where Wilbur and Orville conducted their glider experiments.
From sea to shining sea there are so many incredible sights to explore in our country.  Whether you live on the East Coast, the West Coast or points in between now is the right time to visit these sights.

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Last summer I did a tour of the Pacific coast from California to Tillamook, Oregon.  We stopped at two lighthouses but if you are traveling by auto it would be fun to see all nine of the surviving lighthouse stations since they have been added to the National Register of Historic Places.
Seven of the lighthouses are available to visit during the summer months, many manned by volunteers.  Over two and one half million people stop each year at these extraordinary links to the past.
All of the structures have been unoccupied since modern technology took over in the 1960s which allowed for installing automated beacons.  The lighthouses are built on prominent headlands near major rivers where commercial fishing and shipping is prominent.
I will tell you a little about each one so if you cannot see them all, you can at least pick and choose which ones sound the most interesting.

Staring from just north of the California border the first one is Cape Blanco.

This lighthouse stands 256 feet above the ocean and is located nine miles north of Port Orford off of Highway 101.  It is the oldest standing lighthouse on the Oregon Coast.  It was commissioned in 1870 because of the gold discoveries and lumbering going on in the area.
Two miles north of Bandon in Bullards Beach State Park is the Coquilee River Lighthouse.  It was commissioned in 1896 to guide mariners across a dangerous bar.  It was decommissioned in 1939 but restored as an interpretive center in 1979.
Cape Arago Lighthouse is twelve miles south of Coos Bay and North Bend.  It stands 100 feet above the ocean on an inlet.  It is the newest of the lighthouses, illuminated in 1934 but is not opened to the public.  However if you visit, there is a very unique foghorn you might hear.
Next up is the Umpqua River Lighthouse located three miles south of Reedsport  above the entrance to Winchester Bay.  This is the second lighthouse on this spot.  The first one fell into the river four years after it was built in 1861.  This one sits sixty five feet above the ocean overlooking sand dunes.  It took 240,000 bricks to construct the lighthouse tower and if you mention this you will get a discount on the tour cost.
Heceta Head Lighthouse located twelve miles north of Florence has a sixty five foot tower that sits 205 feet above the ocean.  It was first illuminated in 1894 but today the beacon can be seen for twenty one miles, making it the brightest light on the Oregon Coast.  The lightkeepers house built in 1893 now operates as a bed and breakfast.

This lighthouse has been undergoing renovation since 2012 and is closed to the public but just below it is a wonderful beach with parking.  This is where I stop on the motor coach so everyone gets a chance to wade in the Pacific Ocean if so desired. Also it is very near the Sea Lion caves.  There is a charge to see the caves but it is a pretty awesome sight and worth the visit.
You can find two more lighthouses near the Newport area.  One is the Yaquina Bay Lighthouse and the other is the Yaquina Head Lighthouse.  The one on the bay is the second oldest lighthouse in the state.  It has a ninety three foot tower and stands 162 feet above sea level.  There are a lot of seabird nesting sites around this lighthouse and I also like to stop here when I can.
As you continue driving the Cape Meares Lighthouse is ten miles west of Tillamook and US Highway 101.  It stands 217 feet above sea level. This structure was first illuminated in 1890 and automated in 1963.  There is a trail that leads from the parking lot to the lighthouse and there are viewpoints people like to stand on to see sea lions or also for whale watching.
Finally the last one is the Tillamook Rock Lighthouse just south of Seaside.  It stands 133 feet above sea level on a rock islet.  Because it is exposed to fierce storm waves it was given the name “Terrible Tilly.”  There is no public access and was placed here just south of the Columbia River.  However it is visible in a nearby state park.
Even if you don’t get to one of the lighthouses, which would be a shame, just driving the Oregon Coast is an awesome experience.  At any turn in the road you can see waves pounding the shore or the giant monolith rocks that stand like sentinels in the water close to the shore.  It is a truly amazing sight to behold. To me this should be another great area to add to your bucket list.

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While traveling the Pacific Coast last summer we went inland to Portland, Oregon and then up I-5 towards Seattle.  On our journey we stopped in the Mount St. Helens area.
Mount St. Helens, 8364 feet high, is in the Cascade Mountain Range in southern Washington.  There are several volcanoes in this range with four alone in Washington State.
Up by the Canadian border, north of Seattle, is Mount Baker,  Next comes Mt. Rainier, a majestic mountain over 14,400 feet high.    Mt. Rainier is full of glaciers and if it blows, the catastrophe, because of the ice particles and amount of people living in the area, will be much worse than the Mt. St. Helens’ eruption.   Behind Rainier is Mt Adams.
When you fly into Seattle you can see all these volcanoes from the air.  And even if there is cloud cover the cones are always sticking out which is a rather surreal sight.
It is hard to believe that it has been over thirty-five years since the eruption.  It was May, 1980 when the mountain blew its top 1,313 feet off and much of the bulging north face.  In March, 2 months earlier, the mountain showed signs of waking up after a 123 year old sleep.  However many people did not believe something that catastrophic would develop.
But when it did, the mountain shot a plume of smoke and ash 80,000 feet into the air and caused a mile wide avalanche that raised Spirit Lake over 200 feet.  Although there was devastating destruction, scientists learned a lot, and that event even caused them to rethink how the Grand Canyon might have been formed.
In 1982 President Ronald Reagan named the region a National Monument.  The area is managed by the U.S. Forest Service with the roads only opened from the end of May until the end of September.
Five miles after you exit the interstate, you will come upon the Mount St. Helens Visitor Center at Silver Lake.  It opened in 1987, and is maintained by the Washington State Park System unlike the rest of the area.
The exhibits there include the area’s culture and history, as well as the natural history and geology of the volcano, and its eruption.  The Center had a gift shop, naturally.  But there is also a theater with an excellent overview film of the eruption and the way the region looked afterwards.
In the three years after the centered opened over one and a half million people stopped there on their way up the mountain.  Obviously it is a very popular place.
After stopping at the Visitor Center you begin the over fifty mile drive to The Johnston Ridge Observatory which is at the end of the road up the mountain. The exhibits there focus on the geologic history of the volcano, eyewitness accounts of the explosion, and the science of monitoring volcanic activity.
As you continue up the mountain you can stop at the Hoffstadt Bluffs Visitor Center, the Forest Learning Center, and various pull-offs where you get different views of the volcano.  There is another road that goes south and east around the volcano that you can take from Portland but there is no way to get to the Johnson Ridge Observatory since Spirit Lake is in the way.
But it is definitely worth the drive to Johnson Ridge.  There are ranger-led programs available every hour, as well as, a half-mile trail with views of the lava dome, crater, pumice plain, and landslide deposit.
There is also a totally awesome movie.  It tells the story of the eruption on a big screen with curtains on each side.  When the movie is over the screen is raised up and the curtains opened to big picture windows.  And right in your line of sight is the volcano.  You won’t soon forget the surprised reaction you feel, nor the gasps you can hear around the room as the volcano is revealed in front of everyone.
So if you find yourself in the Pacific Northwest in the summertime a trip to this volcano should definitely be on your bucket list.

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I recently did a tour up the coast of the Pacific Northwest and there is so much beauty in that area it inspired to write about a few of the wonderful sites I saw.  First up is the giant Redwoods of California.

Along the coast of Northern California is Redwood National Park as well as several Redwood State Parks.  Starting north of San Francisco as you go over the Golden Gate Bridge you will be astounded by Muir Woods.  As you walk through the grove of Redwoods over one hundred feet tall, you can’t help but marvel at the old growth forest

If you have been to Yosemite National Park, which I have written about in a previous article, the trees living there are the giant sequoias.  They are slightly shorter but more massive than the trees in Muir Woods and along the coast.

The trees in Muir Woods and as you travel up the California Coast are called Coast Redwoods.  These trees grow in the moist climate of this area with winter rains and summer fog.  They keep so much water in their trunks that even a fire won’t burn them down.

About 120 miles south of Crescent City, which is close to the Oregon border, is where all the Redwood Parks begin.  Coming from San Francisco the first park you enter is the Humboldt Redwoods State Park, the largest remaining old growth forest in the world.  This park has a road that parallels Highway 101 for 32 miles and is called “The Avenue of the Giants.”

If you have all day you can make many stops but if your time is limited I would recommend two stops.  A third stop you might want to consider is where you drive through a giant redwood tree.  I have never been able to do that because I always go through the area on a motor coach and it can’t fit through the tree.

A very important stop in this area is the Humboldt Interpretive and Welcome Center where Charles Kellogg’s “Travel Log” is on display.  Kellogg was a vaudeville performer who imitated bird songs.  He later campaigned for the protection of the California redwood forests.

Kellogg constructed a mobile home, called the “Travel Log”, out of a redwood tree, and drove it around the country to raise awareness of the plight of the California forests. Its maximum speed was 18 mph.  Looking at it you can just picture the man driving around in his log.

There is also a lot of other information about the redwoods at this visitor center and a short but very nice trail you can walk through just across the street.

I also like to make a stop at “The immortal Tree.”  It is so massive and has been hit with lightening and floods but just keeps on growing.  There is also a nice gift shop there where you can actually purchase Redwood products.  There are several other stops you may enjoy but with our limited time, these are the two stops I make.

Coast Redwoods are the tallest known tree species in the world.  They can average from 150-250 feet tall and some are even over 350 feet tall.  They can have diameters of 12-20 feet.  Sometimes it’s fun to take a picture of several people around one of these massive trees.  I not only do this to show the height but especially to see how many people it takes to form a ring around the tree.

These trees can live several hundred years with some even living over 2,000 years.  The bark can be over one foot thick and has resin making for a strong resistance to disease and fire.  However the shallow root system grows latterly rather than down so they are susceptible to high winds and flooding.

Lightening can cause the trees to hollow out and I stood in one once that was totally hollow but standing over 100 feet tall.  It was a very unique experience.

Redwood has a rich red bark and is easy to work with and resistant to rot.  With the lumber industry so important in this area it is amazing there are so many groves left today.  Thank goodness the state of California preserved these giant wonders by creating so many state parks.

So if you are ever out in San Francisco or anywhere in northern California take a detour up the coast to see these giant wonders. It will definitely be worth your while.

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With Fall just around the corner here is a great place to visit during that time of the year.
I was once playing a trivia game and the question was, “What state is called The Mountain State?”  Naturally I started thinking Wyoming or Colorado, but I was wrong.  The correct answer which shocked me was…West Virginia.
The state is nestled in the Appalachian Mountains which are the oldest mountain chain in North America.  Because of that you don’t see a lot of tall mountains.  The average is probably 3,000-5,000 feet with a few over 6,000.
But what makes West Virginia “The Mountain State”?   They say they have more mountains in their state than any other state east of the Mississippi.  This state has had its share of troubles from Civil War battles, mountain feuds, and coal mining labor disputes.
But today its scenic beauty, especially in the fall, has made it a haven for skiers, white-water rafters, hikers and anyone who loves the outdoors.  There are covered bridges, caves, and an extensive railway system that was once used for transporting lumber and now carries passengers who want to enjoy the state’s scenic wonders.
And that is the reason I am writing this article.  I wrote a previous piece on West Virginia Autumn Foliage and that is truly a wonderful time to visit the state.  But our new tour, with Mayflower Tours, runs both in the summer and fall.
The tour is called “West Virginia Mountain Rails and Trails” and you are treated to four different train rides in the state on this seven day adventure.  You fly into Pittsburgh which is another Eastern city that has made a turn around and is quite beautiful.
From there you transfer to your hotel in Morgantown.  We ride a prototype people mover around Don Knott’s hometown and see all the sights where he grew up.
Later that day we have dinner aboard the Potomac Eagle Scenic Railroad.   This excursion follows the South Branch of the Potomac River through a scenic valley and steep mountains filled with evergreens.  You may even spot a bald eagle along this journey.
The next day is on to the Seneca Rocks National Recreation Area and later we board the Cass Scenic Railroad for a journey up the mountain to Whittaker Station and a logging camp.  Old steam Shay or Heisler locomotives, that once hauled the logging trains, will take us on this adventure.
The Greenbriar with the Bunker is one of my favorite places to visit.  This stop awaits us the next day.  I wrote about this place extensively in my other West Virginia article if you would like to read more about this stop.
We continue on to the Beckley Exhibition Coal Mine where we travel underground in authentic mining cars.  The New River Gorge, one of America’s newest National Parks, is our next stop.  We even ride a covered jetboat on the river.
Finally our last day is full of adventure.  First up we ride the steam-powered Durbin Rocket along the Greenbriar River.  A Climax 1910 steam locomotive takes us on a 10 & ½ mile 2 hour journey with both scenic mountain, as well as river views.
Next up have a hobo lunch while we climb Cheat Mountain aboard the Salamander and finish the day with dinner at the Railyard Restaurant and ending with an evening of live entertainment at the American Mountain Theater.  At the theater we are treated to a mixture of country, gospel, bluegrass, pop, and patriotic music.
There is definitely a lot of adventure on this tour as well as scenic beauty that will take your breath away.  Whether you take an escorted tour or make up your own with Fall nearly here you may want to definitely consider visiting the “The Mountain State.”

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With the new year, Lent will be coming and that means one thing in the South–Mardi Gras. And the biggest one happens in New Orleans.

Recently my company developed a new tour that goes to New Orleans.  I have been to that city many times and it’s a fun place to visit, especially if you like to eat and drink.  You’ll find bowls filled to the rim with gumbo, late nights in dark jazz clubs, and strolls through historic neighborhoods.  There are many festivals throughout the year, including the most famous one, Mardi Gras.

New Orleans is one of the world’s most fascinating cities and home to a truly unique melting pot of culture, food and music.  The people who came to the city arrived from Europe, the Caribbean, and Africa.

There are Cajuns and Creoles.  The difference?  Mainly it has to do with how they migrated since both groups are strongly influenced by French culture.
The Cajuns came from Acadia in Nova Scotia, Prince Edward Island, and
New Brunswick regions of Canada. The British were worried they would rise up
and fight on the side with the French during the French and Indian War so they expelled them from the region

The Creoles are made up of people from Spain, Africa, the Caribbean and many other regions. Their cuisine is different as to spiciness and they tend to include
elements of African, Native American or Caribbean culture into their music and
faith. Cajuns usually use a jazz or blues style and lean toward Catholicism.

New Orleans is a major United States port and the largest city in Louisiana.  The population in the city is approximately 344,000 with over a million in the greater metro area.  Since the city is on the Mississippi River and the river bends, the town is also called Crescent City.

After the Louisiana Purchase in 1803 the city grew rapidly with influxes of Americans, French, Creoles, and Africans. Later immigrants were the Irish, Germans, and Italians. Sugar and cotton produced on large plantations outside the city helped the economy grow.

The city’s expansion was due to a drainage plan designed to drain huge tracts of swamp and marshland and expand into low-lying areas. However over the years these newly populated areas declined to several feet below sea level, leaving the city like a bowl.  Even today when we are on tour there, buses are no longer allowed into the French Quarter.  They fear the streets could crack under the weight of these heavy vehicles.  Instead we have to stay on the perimeter and then walk in to the Quarter.

During Hurricane Katrina the levees tipped over and Lake Ponchatrain spilled in decimating much of the city.  However the French Quarter and St. Charles
Historic district remained intact with little flooding since they are on much higher ground.

There is very distinct old architectural style found in the French Quarter.   When
you see balcony buildings with lots of wrought iron you are probably in the
city. Remember the town is several hundred years old and is also in the humid South.  I had one traveler who was very disappointed when he saw the French Quarter for the first time.  He thought it was dirty and run down.  But that is New Orleans.

People drink and eat on Bourbon Street every day and at night they close the street to vehicle traffic.  The partygoers throw their garbage and cups in the street.  Every morning the trucks come in and sweep up the garbage and then they hose the street down.  I know that sounds yucky but it works.

There is a lot to do around the city.  On our tour we go to the National World War II Museum which is an excellent attraction.  We also have a step on guide who takes us all over the city.  But if you are not on an escorted tour you
can ride the trolleys and see the famous St. Charles Avenue with all the famous
mansions.  This street is also part of the Mardi Gras parade route and months later you will still see Mardi Gras beads hanging from trees and electric wires.

We also go to a cemetery to better understand the unique burial system in the city.  You’ll never see any movie or Television show with New Orleans as the setting without seeing one of the famous cemeteries.

It is best to take some type of tour or trolley to become familiar with the city.
They don’t call it “The Crescent City” for nothing.  Streets can bend in all kinds of weird directions.  On top of that the Americans and French did
not get along very well back in the 1800’s.  So they built many boulevards where they could meet since this was considered neutral ground.

And the main thoroughfare leading to the French Quarter is called Canal Street.
It is one of the widest streets in America due to the fact it separated the two cultures.  Here all the streets have different names when they cross Canal.  One side is the American named street and the other, the French named street.  So when St. Charles Ave gets to Canal Street, the name is changed to Royal.  And,
Bourbon changes to Carondelet.

If that gets too confusing for you, don’t worry.  Get to historic Jackson Square
and find a restaurant that serves Gumbo, PoBoys or Muffalettas.  For dessert
you’re off to Café du Monde for beignets and coffee as you watch the street
people and artists selling their wares.

After that if walking the Quarter doesn’t do much for you take a horse and buggy ride or have a bicyclist ride you around.  After all you need to save yourself for serious partying that evening.

That is why the city is called “The Big Easy.”

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When you think Memphis, hopefully you think music and food.
Of course there is so much more but the city is world famous for Rock N’
Roll, Soul, and Blues music, as well as Barbeque, especially ribs.
Memphis is one of the few cities in the US that even has awesome food at their airport!

The city has a population of just under 655,000 making it the largest city in the state of Tennessee, although Nashville’s metropolitan area is larger.  It is also the largest city on the Mississippi River.

I always tell my travelers that in olden times  “the rivers were the roads.”  Since the city is located on a large bluff rising from the Mississippi River, the town site has been a natural location for human settlement.

The Mound Builders settled in the area thousands of years ago and there is a lot of evidence of their existence here.  De Soto, the explorer, broke off from Coronado in the 1540’s and traveled the river.  These men were searching for the Lost Cities of Gold, which of course obviously they never found.  Then in the mid 1600’s Marquette and Joliet traveled the river all the way up to Wisconsin and Michigan in their quest to civilize the natives and save souls.

Since the city had a large slave trade the people voted to seceded from the Union in June 1861, and briefly became a Confederate stronghold. However ironclad gunboats captured the city in June 1862 and the town was occupied by the Union Army for the duration of the war.  The presence of the Union Army attracted many fugitive slaves to the city and the black population of Memphis increased from 3,000 in 1860 to nearly 20,000 in 1865.

In the 1870’s plagues ran rampant all over the United States (these illnesses decimated the Native American populations out West) and over half of the population of Memphis died.  Robert Church became the first African American millionaire and he did this by buying up properties of the deceased with no living relatives.

The city is the home of founders and pioneers of various American music genres, including soul, blues, gospel, and rock n’ roll. Many musicians, including Aretha Franklin, Jerry Lee Lewis, Johnny Cash, Elvis Presley, Carl Perkins, Roy Orbison, Booker T. & the MG’s , Otis Redding, Isaac Hayes, Sam & Dave, and B.B. King, got their start in Memphis in the 1950s and 1960s.  Both Sun Records and Stax Records are reminders of this colorful time.

The famous Beale Street is a national historical landmark, and shows the impact Memphis has had on American blues.  Any night but especially on weekends, people come out dressed in their finest to visit the restaurants and clubs that made this area famous or should I say “infamous.”.

There are also many museums in the area as well as A. Schwab’s famous dry goods store that advertises “if we don’t have it, you don’t need it.”  I had one passenger get really excited when he saw some toys for sale he remembers playing with back in the 1950’s and 1960’s.

And there are so many other places to visit in the area.  First, I have to mention the most famous: Elvis Presley’s Graceland.  No matter what you think of Elvis’ taste, this 14 acre estate where you see how he lived, including the “jungle room”  and his gold records, awards and costumes is worth at least a one time visit.

Don’t forget to atop by Sam Philips’ Sun Studio which is opened for tours. Elvis, Johnny Cash, Jerry Lee Lewis, Carl Perkins and Roy Orbison all made their first recordings there, and were “discovered” by Phillips. Many great blues artists also recorded there, such as W.C. Handy, Father of the Blues.

Another “must” stop as mentioned previously is Stax Records which created a classic 1960s soul music sound.  Booker T. and the M.G.s
were the label’s big band for most of the classic hits that came out of
Stax.  But also Otis Redding, Wilson Pickett, and many others recorded
there. This music still lives on in the Blues Brothers movie, in which many of the musicians starred as themselves.

There is a trolley that runs all over the downtown so you don’t have to find a place to park. And this gives you your bearings for all the great sites to visit. Be sure and walk into the Peabody hotel to see the famous
ducks.  And just on the other side of Beale Street is the Lorraine Motel
where Martin Luther King, Jr. was shot.  Every day a bouquet of flowers is placed on the 2nd story at the site of the shooting.  The National Civil
Rights Museum is also located there and definitely worth a visit.

While in Memphis be sure and have a piece of pie.  But remember as the dumb laws for Tennessee state “all pie must be eaten on the premise.  No pie may be taken out!”  Where that law came from is anyone’s guess.

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Last time we looked at train travel with Amtrak but now let’s focus on some individual routes.  Chicago is a hub for Amtrak.  The long distance East/West trains originate in that city.  However it is the coastal and commuter runs that make the most money for the corporation.

The trains that run along the West or East coasts, as well as some smaller train routes like the Empire Service between New York and Buffalo and the Hiawatha between Chicago and Milwaukee, make several trips a day back and forth to their destinations.  Since these trains are very profitable for Amtrak, the equipment is more up to date.

Trains from Chicago to New York, Boston or Washington, DC like the Lake Shore Limited or Capitol Limited, are shorter distance trains since the distance between Chicago and the East Coast is shorter than trains going from the Midwest to the West coast. These trains leave Chicago in the evening and the next day, you are at your destination.  Acela Express from Boston
to DC is another popular commuter run in the East..

The Pacific Surfliner has several runs a day from San Diego to just past Los Angeles. This train continues to Seattle but not several times a day. The scenery along the Coast Starlight route is unsurpassed. The dramatic snow-covered peaks of the Cascade Range and Mount Shasta, lush forests, fertile
valleys and long stretches of Pacific Ocean shoreline provide a stunning
backdrop for your journey

In addition to all the Chicago trains, there are several that go north and south out of New York.  The Crescent goes deep into the Carolina’s, Georgia, Alabama and ends in New Orleans. But you can also take the City of New Orleans from Chicago to get to that famed city.  What a great way to travel to Mardi Gras without having to worry about road conditions or weather related flight cancellations.

The older trains are the ones with the most problems, since Amtrak has not updated their equipment in a long time, and they are the long distance Western routes. The scenery is more spectacular but issues can develop.  The staff, while overworked, strive to give the best service possible and you can tell that most of them love their job.

There is a feeling of excitement when boarding the California Zephyr.
The next morning you are in Denver and the scenery becomes vertical.  Some of the areas the train goes through cannot be accessed by cars.  Then late the next evening, Salt Lake City, UT beckons.  If you continue on to California, that overnight is spent traveling through the desert.  Finally on your last morning, you arrive in Reno.  Once again you are vertical through the tunnels and majesty of the Sierra Nevada Mountains.

The scenery on the Empire Builder is also really stunning. While the Mississippi
River and the Badlands of North Dakota have their own beauty, the run between
Glacier National Park and Seattle in the Cascade Mountains is truly awesome.
This track was not built until the late 1800’s. Then in the early 1900s, the
great Western lodges were constructed to bring the wealthy Easterners to the
remote National Parks. The Empire builder is billed as a 1st class train.
Service is consistently good a.

Another favorite train is the Southwest Chief. There is something special about watching the buttes, mesas and the Southwest desert that has a beauty all its own. The crew on this train comes out of LA and I have always found the service and food to be excellent.
I have not been on the Texas Eagle for quite a few years. It goes from Chicago to St Louis, Dallas and finally San Antonio. There it meets up with the Sunset Limited coming from New Orleans and going to LA. One time on the Sunset Limited, I awoke in the middle of the night and looked out. There was a full moon and the huge sand dunes in the Sonora desert looked like we were traveling on a distant planet. The Sunset Limited used to be the only cross country train. However after hurricane Katrina, the New Orleans to Florida run was not resumed.

I love riding the trains. There is something about sitting back and watching the world go by that is very relaxing.  And it is so much more comfortable then driving.  You can get up and walk around the train and the engine keeps chugging along all night to get you to your destination faster than a car.  Always remember, “it is the journey and not the destination.”

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